Quality Assurance Manual

 Table of Contents

 

	Page No.
Quality Assurance and Quality Control	1
Seven Basic Quality Tools	1
Cause Analysis Tools	2
Quality Control Method	3
Product Quality Monitoring	6
Classification of Critical, Major and Minor Defects:
Seams and Stitching	7
Cleanness and Appearance	8
Materials / Fabrics	9
Pressing (Ironing)	9
Measurements	10
Labels / Instructions	10

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Quality Assurance and Quality Control

 

The terms “quality assurance” and “quality control” are often used interchangeably to refer to ways of ensuring the quality of a service or product. The terms, however, have different meanings. ·         Assurance: The act of giving confidence, the state of being certain or the act of making certain. ·         Quality assurance: The planned and systematic activities implemented in a quality system so that quality requirements for a product or service will be fulfilled. ·         Control: An evaluation to indicate needed corrective responses; the act of guiding a process in which variability is attributable to a constant system of chance causes. Quality control: The observation techniques and activities used to fulfill requirements for quality.

 

 

Seven Basic Quality Tools

These are the most fundamental quality control (QC) tools. They were first emphasized by Kaoru Ishikawa, professor of engineering at Tokyo University and the father of “quality circles.” This list is sometimes called the “seven quality control tools,” the “seven basic tools” or the “seven old tools.” Cause-and-effect diagram (also called Ishikawa or fishbone chart): Identifies many possible causes for an effect or problem and sorts ideas into useful categories. Check sheet: A structured, prepared form for collecting and analyzing data; a generic tool that can be adapted for a wide variety of purposes. Control charts: Graphs used to study how a process changes over time. Histogram: The most commonly used graph for showing frequency distributions, or how often each different value in a set of data occurs. Pareto chart: Shows on a bar graph which factors are more significant. Scatter diagram: Graphs pairs of numerical data, one variable on each axis, to look for a relationship. Stratification: A technique that separates data gathered from a variety of sources so that patterns can be seen (some lists replace "stratification" with "flowchart" or "run chart").

 

 

 

 

 

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Cause Analysis Tools

Fishbone Diagram Also Called: Cause-and-Effect Diagram, Ishikawa Diagram Variations: cause enumeration diagram, process fishbone, time-delay fishbone, CEDAC (cause-and-effect diagram with the addition of cards), desired-result fishbone, reverse fishbone diagram Description The fishbone diagram identifies many possible causes for an effect or problem. It can be used to structure a brainstorming session. It immediately sorts ideas into useful categories. When to Use a Fishbone Diagram When identifying possible causes for a problem. Especially when a team’s thinking tends to fall into ruts. Fishbone Diagram Procedure Materials needed: flipchart or whiteboard, marking pens. Agree on a problem statement (effect). Write it at the center right of the flipchart or whiteboard. Draw a box around it and draw a horizontal arrow running to it. Brainstorm the major categories of causes of the problem. If this is difficult use generic headings: Methods Machines (equipment) People (manpower) Materials Measurement Environment Write the categories of causes as branches from the main arrow. Brainstorm all the possible causes of the problem. Ask: “Why does this happen?” As each idea is given, the facilitator writes it as a branch from the appropriate category. Causes can be written in several places if they relate to several categories. Again ask “why does this happen?” about each cause. Write sub-causes branching off the causes. Continue to ask “Why?” and generate deeper levels of causes. Layers of branches indicate causal relationships. When the group runs out of ideas, focus attention to places on the chart where ideas are few.             Page-2     Fishbone Diagram Example This fishbone diagram was drawn by a manufacturing team to try to understand the source of periodic iron contamination. The team used the six generic headings to prompt ideas. Layers of branches show thorough thinking about the causes of the problem. For example, under the heading “Machines,” the idea “materials of construction” shows four kinds of equipment and then several specific machine numbers. Note that some ideas appear in two different places. “Calibration” shows up under “Methods” as a factor in the analytical procedure, and also under “Measurement” as a cause of lab error. “Iron tools” can be considered a “Methods” problem when taking samples or a “Manpower” problem with maintenance personnel.

 

 

Quality Control Method

 

Quality control is a very important task of the company. It is this task of the company that makes the buyers buy their products as it is offered with reasonable price. The objectives of the quality control are:

              i.            Discover the quality problem

             ii.            Inquire  into the causes of the problem

            iii.            Collect and analyze data

           iv.            Standardize the operation or process

            v.            Establish the standard and check them for verification and routine

           vi.            Re-check the standard for further improvement and establish quality assurance

       system

vii.      Produce and deliver quality product

 

 

Different quality control methods are adapted at different stages of production to assure quality of products as per buyer’s standards. These methods are described.

 

             I.                Incoming and outgoing material inspection: All procurement must be done by trained, experienced and person who has been given authority for this purpose. All incoming material must be inspected both by purchase department and store department and proper documentation must be made against lot, quality, quality in bin card and register. The same should be done for outgoing materials with the issue of gate pass by the store department. 

 

ii.         Foreign country test: some tests are done outside the country. Pilling test is done by ITA of Singapore or SGA of Hong Kong.

 

iii.         Four point fabric inspection: It is an inspection method used for the visual checking of fabric quality. Faults are scored with penalty points of 1, 2, 3 and 4 according to the size and significance.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Size of defect (inches)	Assigned Points
3 inches or less	1
Over 3 but not over 6 inches	2
Over 6 but not over 9 inches	3
Over 9 inches	4
Holes up to 1”	2
Holes over 1”	4

 

 

a.    Normally apply for both knitted and woven fabric inspection.

 

b.    Assign no more than a total of 4 points to any one linear yard of fabric regardless of the number or size of the detected individual defects.

 

c.    Assign 4 points to each full width defect.

 

d.    This method is a means of numerical designation that may be used for assessing the quality of fabric. The acceptance of fabric however, depends upon the standards that have been mutually agreed by the factory and the fabric seller/supplier.

 

e.    As a guideline 28 points per 100 square meters of fabric is a common standard.

 

iv. In-line inspections, tests and examinations:  quality control officer or quality control   department personnel will make inspections, tests and examinations in every hour and note down number of faults or defects in each department/ line/ section/or table of production by each worker. Defective works must be either rejected or as permissible should be altered. Customer or his agent may at any time be a part of the quality control team member or make inline inspections, tests and examinations. For this purpose within limit the production department/ factory will make necessary personnel and material available an access to location and space for work. In each case written report must be prepared and signed by the person who conducted inspection, test and examination, if buyers’ agent does this he will do it , quality control officer  of the company and the  department in charge where the inspection, test and examination took place.

 

a.    Such in-line inspections, tests and examinations will be carried out as per requirements, instructions and documents referred to in the buyers contract or as per the agreement of sales by both company’s quality control officer and by buyer’s agents. Written report has to be prepared right after inspection and signed by the quality control officer, buyer’s agent and by the department head where such inspection, test or examination was carried out.  

 

b.    If any production program (dying, cutting, printing, embossing, embroidery or stitching) is done by subcontractor or other supplier it must be ensured by the quality control officer and/or the buyer’s agent or by both that is done as per standard required.

 

 

 

 

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c.    All different program operators, machine operators and supervisors must check the output of his/her operation and will try to make minimum defects. Inspection by quality control officer does not invalidate their responsibilities.    

 

d.    Results of inspections, tests and examinations must be reported in written, signed by quality control officer and other personnel responsible and should be submitted to the Managing Director.  It must be remembered by all concerned that using subcontractors or other suppliers does not cancel out our responsibility to produce and deliver required quality products.        

 

 

v.         Final inspection and testing: final inspection and testing will be done by the quality control officer, buyer’s agent and head of packaging department. Random sampling may be used for final inspection and testing or buyer’s agent in the presence of quality control officer and the head of the packaging department may carry out the inspection and testing.

 

a)    With the delivery of products relevant lists, bills, certificates, declarations, maintenance instructions or other documents has to be prepared. Without these delivery is not considered complete. Before delivery at any time final inspection and testing may take place.

 

b)    If the company gives delivery by its own lorry then field service is given so that the goods get no damage or quality deterioration at the field level.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Product Quality Monitoring

 

Landmark carry our Product Quality Monitoring of finished goods prior to shipment to ensure they comply with Acceptable Quality Limits.  Delivered goods may be subject to an inspection and rejected if defect levels exceeds AQL’s or a critical safety issue is found.

 

Acceptable Quality Limits (AQL’s) have been set as follows:

 

Zero for critical faults,  2.5 for major faults, 4.0 for minor faults

 

SIZE	SAMPLE SIZE	CRITICAL (AQL-Zero)	MAJOR (AQL-2.5)	MINOR (AQL-4.0)
51 – 90	13	1	1	1
91 – 150	20	1	1	2
151 – 280	32	1	2	3
281 – 500	50	1	3	5
501 – 1200	80	1	5	7
1201 – 3200	125	1	7	10
3201 – 10000	200	1	10	14
10001 – 35000	315	1	14	21
35001 – 150000	500	1	21	21
150001 – 500000	800	1	21	21
500000 AND ABOVE	1250	1	21	21

 

Delivery instruction stock is rejected if defects are equal to or exceed levels in the above table.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Classification of Critical, Major and Minor Defects

 

SEAMS AND STITCHING

 

DEFECTS	CRITICAL	MAJOR	MINOR
1.  Any seams open or broken		√
2.  Any seams twisted, puckered, spiraled or containing pleats: a)    Conspicuous b)    Slight		√	√
3.  Any part of garment caught in seams or unrelated part of garment		√
4.  Any raw or uncovered seams, edges, cuffs, hems: a)    Conspicuous (outside) b)    Slight		√	√
5.  Any seams not back-tacked secure or covered by another seam (Exceptions         only if specified on approved sample)		√
6.  Any needle damage: a)    Multiple holes or a single hole which is likely to form into a ladder or both b)    Single hole which is unlikely to form into a ladder		√	√
7.  Any contrast stitching uneven, irregular or mismatched: a)    Conspicuous (outside) b)    Slight (inside) c)     Any joins in top-stitching		√   √	√
8.  Any run-offs of top-stitching: a)    Conspicuous b)    Slight		√	√
9.  Any excessively loose tensions or stitch counts other than specified on       approved samples		√	√
10. Any ropy hems, cuffs, edges or openings: a)    Conspicuous b)    Slight		√	√
11. Any weakness in seam joint, underarms, shoulders, collars, cuffs, hoods,      trouser crotch		√
12. Any drop or miss stitches for knitted garments		√
13. Any patterns not matched and balanced – refer to approved sample for agreed      matching and balance a)    Conspicuous b)    Slight		√	√
14. Any stepping of seams – depending on severity		√	√
15. Any uneven  hems		√	√
16. Any broken or badly attached elastic		√	√
17. Any broken stitches		√	√
18. Any pocket not central, untidy or uneven		√	√
19. Any uneven dirty mark		√	√
20. Any stitches showing through hems not agreed on approved sample		√	√
21. Any broken needles, needles, pins, safety pins, staples or other sharp object       found anywhere on any garment (other than for agreed packaging purposes)	√
22. Any functional drawstrings in hoods and non-secured cords at waist/hem	V up to age 10	V above age 10
23. Any monofilament sewing yarns	√ up to age 10	√ above age 10
99. Seams – other (depending upon severity)		√	√

 

 

 

 

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Classification of Critical, Major and Minor Defects

 

CLEANNESS AND APPEARANCE

 

DEFECTS	CRITICAL	MAJOR	MINOR
1.  Any spots, stains or soiling on the surface of the garment		√	√
2.  Any buttons, buttonholes or poppers not accurately spaced and in correct      alignment		√	√
3.  Any broken button	√ up to 3 years	√ above 3 years
4.  Any buttonholes not stitched tidily and securely or not cleanly cut		√
5.  Any loose threads or overlock ends that are not removed from garment:         a)  Outside         b)  Inside (elsewhere)		√	√
6.  Any sharp or tarnished edges on belts, buckles, zips and poppers	√ Sharp	√ Tarnished
7.  Any loose belt loops, poppers, buttons, belt loops or other trims (All should        be neatly and firmly fixed)	√ up to 24 months	√ Above 24 months
8.  Any bubbling of fusible linings, collars, cuffs,		√	√
9.  Any stepping on hem vents or neck openings		√	√
10.  Any non-functioning of zips or poorly attached        a)  Safety related (missing or ineffective top cobs on open ended zips, or                other defects which cause the slider not to be secured)        b)  Other defects	√	√
11. Any incorrect or mismatched buttons		√
12. Any drop stitches or miss stitches for knitted garments		√	√
13. Any other variation in appearance from approved sample		√	√
14. Any missing accessories		√
99. Cleanness and appearance – other (depending on severity)		√	√

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Classification of Critical, Major and Minor Defects

 

MATERIALS/ FABRICS

 

DEFECTS	CRITICAL	MAJOR	MINOR
1.  Any Holes		√
2.  Any cuts, tears or surface repairs made during production, packaging or      transit		√
3.  Any pulled/ looped yarns/threads      a)  External/ Visible      b)  Internal (significant loops only)	√ Up to 24 months	√	√ Above 24 months
4.  a)  Any slubs 1 cm or more in length, or 2 threads wide in any conspicuous              or focal points of garments      b)  Other hidden or obscure areas      c)   Any slubs 1 cm or below		√	√ √
5.  Any dye spots, misprint, faulty prints that are noticeable and seriously      detract from the appearance of the fabric.		√	√
6.  Any mismatching of stripes, checks on front, back or seams (not agreed on      approved sample)		√	√
7.  Any shading of parts within the product      shade variations within or between products (not agreed on approved        sample)		√	√
8.  Any unspecified piling or surface fussing of fabrics		√	√
9.  Any high immature cotton or foreign/ contaminated fibres		√	√
10. Any variation in handle or finish (not agreed on approved sample)		√	√
99. Materials/ Fabrics – Other (depending on severity)		√	√

 

 

 

Classification of Critical, Major and Minor Defects

 

PRESSING (Ironing)

 

DEFECTS	CRITICAL	MAJOR	MINOR
1.  Any burn or scorch marks		√	√
2.  Any glazing or pressure marks on the surface:      a)  Conspicuous      b)  Slight		√	√
3.  Press marks from clips, coat hangers, others:      a)  Conspicuous      b)  Slight		√	√
4.  Any un-pressed or poorly pressed seams		√	√
5.  Any absence of pressing when specified:      a)  Conspicuous      b)  Slight		√	√
6.  Any dry creases		√	√
7.  Any crease due to transit		√	√
99. Pressing – other (depending on severity)		√	√

 

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Classification of Critical, Major and Minor Defects

 

MEASUREMENTS

 

DEFECTS	CRITICAL	MAJOR	MINOR
1.   Any measurement not to size specification and tolerances specified		√
2.     Any variation in length or width of legs, sleeves, collars, etc within the garment		√
3.     Any neck stretch not achieving a minimum  **	√
99.  Measurements – other (depending on severity)		√	√

 

** Minimum Neck Stretch Requirement:

          Up to and including 50 cm              52 cm total (26 cm half)

          55 to 66 cm inclusive                    54 cm total (27 cm half)

          69 cm upward                                       56 cm total (28 cm half)

 

The above requirements vary from buyer to buyer.

 

 

Classification of Critical, Major and Minor Defects

 

LABELS/ INSTRUCTIONS

 

DEFECTS	CRITICAL	MAJOR	MINOR
1.  Incorrect label position		√
2.     Any incorrect or missing information on label other than barcode, fiber content, materials: a)     Size b)     Color c)      Lot Number d)     Others		√ √ √ √
3.     Any back neck labels not placed central and neatly to back		√	√
4.     Any damage from incorrectly attached labels		√
5.     Any variation in and presentation of sewing tickets			√
6.     Any Staining and/or distortion from adhesive labels		√
7.     Any incorrect sizing of hangers		√
8.     Any illegible labels or marking		√
9.     Any unattached or badly stitched labels		√
10.  Any fraying labels		√	√

 

 

 

 

 

 

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